Salmon Fillets Braised in Pinot Noir with Bacon and Mushroom

I decided that if I wasn't taking myself off to culinary school (and that story is a whole post on its own) then I would purchase myself a number of specialised cookbooks that deal with a specific skill that I can only assume would be taught during said classes. The one that I've most recently purchased is All About Braising: The Art of Uncomplicated Cooking by Molly Stevens. I certainly believe that the art of the braise is a subject worth studying, and after careful consideration of a number of books on the subject I am of the opinion that this book provides the best place to start my braising adventure!

If you were to purchase this book for no other reason than to read the excellent and detailed chapter The Principles of Braising then you would have gotten value for money. Not only does Molly (her writing is so engaging that she's more Molly than Ms. Stevens to me) talk about what actually goes on under the lid of a braising pot, she also describes in detail the different type of braising pots, the purpose of their design and the best type of pot for specific jobs. Furthermore, she doesn't push one particular brand of cookware, instead giving the pros and cons of both expensive and less expensive options. She delves into the use of different cuts of meat as well as fish and vegetables and the different type of braise each category needs. It is a fabulous introduction to the trade.

I admit I have cooked from this book before the dish I'm going to describe today. I made the Stuffed Eggplant Braised with Dill and Mint (pg. 47) and both my wife and I loved it. But today I decided to give the Braised Salmon with Bacon and Mushroom (pg. 107) a go.

I started by collecting all the ingredients and doing my mise en place. While it may be surprising to some, the ingredients included 2 pieces of salmon, pinot noir, bacon and mushrooms (cremini)! Also on the list are leek, carrot, shallot, parsley, thyme, butter and salt and pepper.

Half the bacon was sauteed to render it's fat without browning before the leek, carrot, shallot and chopped mushroom stems were added along with salt and pepper to taste. After they are sauteed gently until slightly browned, the thyme is added as well as half the wine. Brought to a high simmer the braising liquid is reduced to concentrate the flavours. The other half of the wine is added and gently simmered for 5 minutes. After seasoning (and folding the the thinner end under itself to make the pieces more even in thickness), the salmon is placed on top of the braising stock and placed into a 375°F oven.

Now at this stage you must all be wondering what happened to the other half of the bacon... oh, and the mushrooms. Well, rest assured dear readers, I'm about to tell you.

The bacon is sauteed at higher heat until crispy. The bacon is removed, half the fat is poured off and butter is added and the mushrooms are sauteed until browned. These are set aside to make the sauce. Once the salmon is cooked (about 15 minutes) it is taken out of the pot and set aside and covered to keep warm. Strain the braising liquid into a skillet and bring to a simmer. Whisk in some butter and the parsley to finish the sauce. Add the reserved bacon and mushroom and spoon over the salmon. I served it with mashed potato and buttered peas.

Now... the critique...

While both my wife and I enjoyed this dish (I mean what's not to enjoy) I must say that I felt there were a few shortcomings. While a light Pinot was the liquid of choice, the combination of it, the bacon and the mushrooms really lent itself to a more robust meat, with a definite leaning towards beef. To be fair, I did use an apple-smoked bacon which was perhaps unwise and may have given too strong a flavour to the sauce. Also, I think I may have slightly over concentrated the flavour when reducing the sauce. That being said, salmon has a strong flavour and was not lost in the braise, however the flavour of the braise didn't seem to be as complimentary as what I imagine would be imparted by ingredients such as ginger, spring onion, garlic and perhaps lemongrass. The use of some rice wine, some soy sauce and maybe a little fish stock would probably work for the liquid component of the braise. This is probably what I'll try next time. Overall, a tasty dish, made better by the mashed potato which allowed for the sopping up of the strong sauce flavours... 7/10!