It's not hot enough unless your eyeballs are sweating...

This is my all-time favourite curry! The recipe originated with the mother of one of my mother’s students. My mother is an integration aide at a primary school in Melbourne, Australia, and a number of years ago, her student (who's family was from Sri Lanka) brought this curry to school. My mother, always looking our for my gastronomic needs, asked for the recipe. I couldn’t have been more pleased!

This curry is pretty damn hot. It originates from Old Ceylon and is fragranced with whole spices and fresh curry leaves. I generally use beef although lamb or pork will work well too. Because the meat is marinated in chilli powder, salt and turmeric for a number of hours, tougher cuts can be used as the spices help to tenderise the meat. With regard to beef, I find tri-tip works very well if well trimmed, as does rump. Serve with rice and plenty of cooling raita or plain yoghurt. And for the Americans reading this, especially those from the South West, chilli powder is not the powder one uses to make chili. It is instead the powder made from grinding down dried hot chilli peppers. You will find all these spices from your local Indian Food Store (and they’ll be much cheaper than buying at the supermaket).

Enjoy!

Ingredients

1kg/2.2lb beef, diced in ½ -1-inch cubes
2 tbsp roasted chilli powder
2 tsp salt
1 tsp ground turmeric
2 tbsp peanut oil
1 tsp whole cumin seeds
1 tsp whole fenugreek seeds
1 tsp whole fennel seeds
2 medium onions, finely diced
1 tbsp chopped fresh ginger
2 green chillies, chopped
12 curry leaves
2 tbsp milk
1 tbsp ground cumin

Method

In a medium bowl, stir the roasted chilli powder, salt and ground turmeric through the diced beef (pictured right). Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours (I have often marinated the beef the day before).

Over medium flame, heat a large saucepan or French oven and, once hot, add the oil and the cumin, fenugreek and fennel seeds. Fry until golden and then add the diced onions.

Once the onions have started to colour (pictured right), add the ginger, green chillies and 8 of the curry leaves. Fry quickly and then add the marinated meat.

Fry the meat until sealed, lower the temperature and cover. Cook for 10 minutes.

Add the milk, stir well, cover again and leave for 20 minutes.

After 20 minutes, add the ground cumin and remaining 4 curry leaves and stir well.

Serve with rice and yoghurt.

Serves 4-6.

Tips

• Ginger can be easily peeled by scraping the non-cutting edge of your knive along it... no need for a special tool!
• This curry freezes exceptionally well. Make double and you'll always have some on hand for a quick dinner!

All-Clad versus Kitchenaid

When it comes down to it, I believe that there are two brands worth considering if you are going to purchase stainless steel cookware: All-Clad (on left of picture) and Kitchenaid (Clad). All-Clad is the flagship of stainless steel which is reflected in their price. Kitchenaid, certainly a respectable brand, doesn't seem to sell this particular product in stores but it is easily available on Amazon. It is also significantly cheaper than All-Clad if bought in sets. The price of individual pieces is equivalent however.

Based on the reviews on Amazon, and while still in Australia, my wife and I purchased the KitchenAid Five-Ply Stainless Steel Clad 9-Piece Cookware Set before moving to the U.S., i.e. sight unseen (while a number of Kitchenaid products are sold in Australia, these don't seem to be). Since arriving, I have also bought a number of All-Clad pieces (2-quart, 3-quart, steamer, 2-quart saucier, 4-quart casserole, Everyday Pan, Oval Roaster; and no, I did not pay those prices!) It seems silly to have two sets however the benefits of All-Clad outweighed the redundancy of having both (and the Kitchenaid will either be sold or given as a gift when we return to Australia). As it happens, both brands of cookware have, in my opinion, positives and negatives.

Simply put, All-Clad make a better designed piece of cookware. While some people, myself included, picked up an All-Clad saucepan in a cookware store and have commented on the uncomfortable handles, what they (and I) didn't realise is that when cooking in a hot kitchen where steam abounds, sweaty hands can make it difficult to pick up a saucepan and tip out it's contents. The All-Clad pans make this job easy as while they are in some ways uncomfortable, they are extremely functional and allow for a good grip and ease of turn. Furthermore, the angle of the handles means that less effort is needed to tip the saucepan. The opposite can be said of the Kitchenaid handles. Kitchenaid handles, while more comfortable in the hand, make the saucepan very difficult to tip when full. My wife cannot turn them at all and I find it difficult without using a teatowel or pot holder. This is accented by the flatter handle which means you have to twist your wrist further to tip out the saucepans contents. In fact, if you look at the picture of the two handles, you'll see that the Kitchenaid handle appears 'flaccid' incomparison to All-Clad's proud and 'erect' handle (ahhh... the innuendo).

It has been said that the pouring lip of All-Clad is not great. In comparison to the Kitchenaid I would have to agree. As the photo on the right attempts to show, the Kitchenaid has a flared lip in comparison to All-Clad's straight sides. I love the look of the All-Clad, however it does make for more difficult pouring for liquids, for example, pouring scalded milk and cream when attempting to temper eggs for ice cream. However, at the same time not having a flared lip allows for better connection of a thermometer to the side of the pot; an advantage when making ice cream!

The lids on the two brands of pans are quite different and the design of the Kitchenaid lid is slightly superior (pictured on left front). Being more domed than the All-Clad lid, the Kitchenaid lid is better at keeping the condensation in when you remove it off cooking food. The All-Clad lid is not... condensation drips off it like no tomorrow. However I found that the Kitchenaid lid does not fit the pans all that well in some cases, especially the 3-quart saucepan... it does not affect their cooking ability however it is a bit of a pain. The All-Clad lids fit the pans perfectly.

I bought the steamer (KitchenAid 2-1/2-Quart Stainless Steel Clad Steamer Insert) for the 3-quart Kitchenaid saucepan. It does not fit well and tips when there is no food in it. I believe this is due to the lip of the pan. I rang Kitchenaid customer service (and I only have nice things to say about them) and they sent me a new 3-quart. The same problem exists. Hence, it is the design of the lip that is flawed with regard to use with the steamer. Of course, while there is food in it, it steams perfectly well.

When cooking with both I find that the All-Clad gives a slightly more even heat although not so much that it makes too big a difference. And I need to correct a misnomer stated by a number of reviewers on Amazon... Kitchenaid DOES NOT have more layers of aluminum than All-Clad. All-Clad have three separate layers of aluminum between the layers of stainless steel. If you read through the detailed descriptions on the All-Clad product pages you will find this fact (All-Clad Stainless 9-Piece Cookware Set). Thus, from a materials perspective they are very similar. What I've been most impressed with has been the almost non-stick quality of both the pans. This is superior stainless steel! Often it is recommended that one should own a non-stick saucepan if making stickier foods, i.e. porridge. My wife and I have porridge nearly every day and I cannot speak more highly about how easy it is to clean these pans; seriously baked on porridge is easily removed with just a little soaking. Fantastic!

Ultimately, I think the price of Kitchenaid warrants it's purchase. For the money it is great value. However, I have basically replaced my Kitchenaid pieces with All-Clad... but that's mostly because I have to have the best (and a bit because they are easier for my wife to use). If you want great cookware, buy Kitchenaid, if you want the best, buy All-Clad. I can't be fairer than that...

Rice Pudding... mmm... mmm... mmm...

So I know it is a little plain and boring but I love Rice Pudding so I decided to give this one a go.

I didn't use the almond extract or the raspberries, and I refrigerated it until it was cold and had formed a nice skin on the top (the prized possession in my family). It was delicious! And it was so simple...

Place all the ingredients into saucepan and bring to a very gentle simmer: stir every 5 minutes of so until thickened. It took 35 minutes for me but I like mine really thick; 25-30 minutes would have been fine. Oh, and the only reason I didn't add the almond essence was because I found my bottle empty in the cupboard. Consequently, I could perhaps have used a little more vanilla but only if you really like vanilla like I do!

This is the real deal!


It's just not the lamb I remember...

So a couple of days ago I decided I wanted a taste from home (Australia). Some of you may not know this, but Australia grew up on the back of the sheep, and while I don't mean that literally (we don't actually ride sheep... unlike those New Zealanders) Australia's export of sheep played a large part in our growing economy in the 20th century. Thus, and with great deliberation, I chose to roast a leg of lamb (in my newly purchased Weber charcoal oven).

I purchased a 5 pound half leg (and shank) from Taylors Old Fashioned Butchers in Sierra Madre... cost a pretty penny too... close to $30! It was very nicely trimmed and tied though... and certainly looked good! I simply made some deep incisions and popped in some sliced garlic cloves and rosemary. After dousing it in some olive oil, salt and pepper I placed it in the Weber, threw some soaked oak chips on the hot coals and closed the lid. An hour and 45 minutes later it was done. Possibly a little over done to my tastes (and looks more than over done in the photo... it wasn't); I like my lamb a little rarer than most.

It was very tender; nice cut of meat. And I really enjoyed the shank... we used to fight over this at home. My dad always got it unless I got in early! What I found unfamiliar was the actual taste of the lamb, or should I say lack of taste. Lamb is considered to be a stronger, more gamey tasting red meat; certainly more so than beef, and I love that flavour. But that was missing here. I can only assume that this has come about as a consequence of this country's obsession with grain-fed produce. I don't know whether the cut I purchased was from a grain fed lamb... I forgot to ask the butcher (I know... terrible). But I do know that Australian lamb is generally grass-fed and that it has a stronger gamier flavour. So I've put two and two together and decided that this must be the reason. Needless to say I was a little disappointed. Of course the smokiness from the oak chips was there and the garlic and rosemary certainly played their part. It was delicious; just not quite what I was used to. However I am still looking forward to cold roast lamb sandwiches with tomato sauce (ketchup) tomorrow!

Salmon Fillets Braised in Pinot Noir with Bacon and Mushroom

I decided that if I wasn't taking myself off to culinary school (and that story is a whole post on its own) then I would purchase myself a number of specialised cookbooks that deal with a specific skill that I can only assume would be taught during said classes. The one that I've most recently purchased is All About Braising: The Art of Uncomplicated Cooking by Molly Stevens. I certainly believe that the art of the braise is a subject worth studying, and after careful consideration of a number of books on the subject I am of the opinion that this book provides the best place to start my braising adventure!

If you were to purchase this book for no other reason than to read the excellent and detailed chapter The Principles of Braising then you would have gotten value for money. Not only does Molly (her writing is so engaging that she's more Molly than Ms. Stevens to me) talk about what actually goes on under the lid of a braising pot, she also describes in detail the different type of braising pots, the purpose of their design and the best type of pot for specific jobs. Furthermore, she doesn't push one particular brand of cookware, instead giving the pros and cons of both expensive and less expensive options. She delves into the use of different cuts of meat as well as fish and vegetables and the different type of braise each category needs. It is a fabulous introduction to the trade.

I admit I have cooked from this book before the dish I'm going to describe today. I made the Stuffed Eggplant Braised with Dill and Mint (pg. 47) and both my wife and I loved it. But today I decided to give the Braised Salmon with Bacon and Mushroom (pg. 107) a go.

I started by collecting all the ingredients and doing my mise en place. While it may be surprising to some, the ingredients included 2 pieces of salmon, pinot noir, bacon and mushrooms (cremini)! Also on the list are leek, carrot, shallot, parsley, thyme, butter and salt and pepper.

Half the bacon was sauteed to render it's fat without browning before the leek, carrot, shallot and chopped mushroom stems were added along with salt and pepper to taste. After they are sauteed gently until slightly browned, the thyme is added as well as half the wine. Brought to a high simmer the braising liquid is reduced to concentrate the flavours. The other half of the wine is added and gently simmered for 5 minutes. After seasoning (and folding the the thinner end under itself to make the pieces more even in thickness), the salmon is placed on top of the braising stock and placed into a 375°F oven.

Now at this stage you must all be wondering what happened to the other half of the bacon... oh, and the mushrooms. Well, rest assured dear readers, I'm about to tell you.

The bacon is sauteed at higher heat until crispy. The bacon is removed, half the fat is poured off and butter is added and the mushrooms are sauteed until browned. These are set aside to make the sauce. Once the salmon is cooked (about 15 minutes) it is taken out of the pot and set aside and covered to keep warm. Strain the braising liquid into a skillet and bring to a simmer. Whisk in some butter and the parsley to finish the sauce. Add the reserved bacon and mushroom and spoon over the salmon. I served it with mashed potato and buttered peas.

Now... the critique...

While both my wife and I enjoyed this dish (I mean what's not to enjoy) I must say that I felt there were a few shortcomings. While a light Pinot was the liquid of choice, the combination of it, the bacon and the mushrooms really lent itself to a more robust meat, with a definite leaning towards beef. To be fair, I did use an apple-smoked bacon which was perhaps unwise and may have given too strong a flavour to the sauce. Also, I think I may have slightly over concentrated the flavour when reducing the sauce. That being said, salmon has a strong flavour and was not lost in the braise, however the flavour of the braise didn't seem to be as complimentary as what I imagine would be imparted by ingredients such as ginger, spring onion, garlic and perhaps lemongrass. The use of some rice wine, some soy sauce and maybe a little fish stock would probably work for the liquid component of the braise. This is probably what I'll try next time. Overall, a tasty dish, made better by the mashed potato which allowed for the sopping up of the strong sauce flavours... 7/10!

Apologies... and Welcome!

Well, it seems somewhat foolish to choose a blog name that one feels compelled to instantly apologise for. However, I do so in the hope that I will not offend any French speaking readers who will undoubtedly recognise the liberties I've taken with the French language...

While in English 'au fait' (a French phrase) is pronounced 'o fay' and thus rhymes gloriously with 'gourmet', in French 'au fait' is pronounced 'o feht' and therefore does not rhyme. Of course, it is possible that someone, somewhere, would know the correct (French) pronunciation of 'au fait' while not knowing that correct (French) pronunciation of 'gourmet' thus allowing for a continuation of the clever (albeit self-proclaimed) alliteration... oh the irony...

Oh... and technically it probably should be 'au fait de gourmet'; that would be a more pure form of French. I acknowledge that. However, I'm Australian, and bastardising language for our own purposes is something we Aussies take pride in...

And finally... 'au fait de' in French means informed of, acquainted with. It can also mean having complete and up-to-date knowledge; conversant...

Thus, and to finally get to the point, I see myself as somewhat of an Au Fait Gourmet, leaning towards the former definition; someone who is acquainted with that that is gourmet. Unfortunately the love I have for food is still somewhat unrequited; it keeps me at a distance, enjoying its acquaintance status. On occasion it appears to let me in, providing me with a dish to fawn over, only to just as quickly scuttle my attempts at real connection. I pine for a more complete knowledge, and perhaps, over time, and with practice and some constructive criticism, I may acquire the relationship I desire. I hope that in doing so my journey may aid you in your own food relationship development...

And if the only person who reads this blog is my mum... well at least she knows I'm still alive!